The Local Primitive

Here's the latest red fruit of my quaffological labors: a $6.99 Primitivo from Villa Fanelli, available only a few steps from my Brooklyn door. The purveyor is friendly Olivino.

Like the subject of my last post, this one is from the underrated region of Puglia. It gets hot down there in the high heel of Italy's boot, so in order to like Primitivo you have to enjoy bold, ripe juice. It's called Primitivo not because it's relatively old (though it's been cultivated for at least 2000 years), but because it plumps up for picking relatively early. Note that Primitivo has been proven to be an ancestor of Zinfindel - we're talking about pretty much the grapeist of the grapey. Expensive Primitivos (I've seen some above $50) smell like pure essense of raisin.

It seems every wine shop in New York has a $10 Primitivo inferior to Villa Fanelli's (Olivino's competitor The Greene Grape, for example). What makes the cheaper option better is its modest table-wine structure. No oak-aged pretensions here. You get that blast of liquid Smucker's while you're quaffing, but then a bracingly dry burn after the swallow. Sets up that next bite of falafel sandwich just beautifully. (By the way, did you know that there's an Italian version of falafel? It's called panelle and it's from Sicily. You can get them at Ferdinando's, or out in Bensonhurst.) I'm tempted to say it's a beer-drinker's wine, but I think it's more accurate (if less economical) to call it a wine-drinker's wine for what might otherwise be a beer-drinking situation. Y'know: one to have when you're having more than one.

All you poor souls who don't live in New York City but aren't so unfortunate that your state prohibits online wine buying can get Villa Fanelli Primitivo for $7.99/bottle here.