Sunday, March 12, 2006

Looking for Delphic Love

That marvelous Astor sale a few weeks ago provided not only the chance to try more pricey selections than usual, but also an irresistible opportunity to grab cheap bottles for really cheap. I am always on the lookout for a consistent, reliable $8-or-less bottle to keep around for general quaffing, and have already written about a few of my favourite choices. Having recently become so enamoured of New Zealand sauvingnon blancs, I thought it worthwhile to explore the cheap end of the spectrum from that general area, ie. the Antipodes and South Africa. This Oracle Sauvingnon Blanc 2005 from South Africa cost a ridiculous $4.20 during the sale, and an easy $6.49 otherwise. On the odd occasion I've had white wines from South Africa, I've been relatively pleased; they are often good values on restaurant menus, and I remember with pleasure a bottle shared one night at Artisanal that cost just $26 and made everyone at the table very happy. However, I might have tried this one with excessive expectations. I found it thin and sharp on the nose. There was a bit of sugar on it, too, a worrying sign on a white. In the mouth it was fruity indeed, but the grapefruit was candied instead of juciy, and it lacked that last burr of grassiness that I look for in even cheap sauvingnon blancs. A simple wine, then, and perfectly quaffable, but for a dollar more I'll go back to my old French friends at Ferrande and Tariquet. A quick search online turns it up for $5.99 at Shopper's Vineyard, and at that price it's probably worth laying in a few bottles.


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